Nova Scotia – Bay of Fundy
Sept 4 – On to the Bay of Fundy area with its huge tides. At Digby is the floating marina. The tide is low so we see boats lying on the ocean floor. The marina gangplanks are at a steep killer angle down and the boats are very far down against the wharf sides. Boat owners actually lower things via bucket and rope rather than carrying items down the steep gangplanks. Lunch is delicious – bacon-wrapped scallops in a maple whiskey glaze. We make a quick stop in Bear River where the buildings are on stilts over the tidal river.
A stop at |Port-Royal National Historic Site shows a small replica French settlement where the French would have lived and traded for furs. We meet Robert, a Mi’kmaw artist who makes baskets with porcupine quill ornamentation, leather clothing, drums, and carves. He is fascinating and explains everything about his artwork – even how to make a drum! He very kindly plays his drum and sings for us.
We learn about the troubles there are harnessing the tides for power at the Tidal Power Plant. Turbines from Ireland have been tried, but failed within 36 hours and then within 6 months. The tidal force here is much stronger and research continues.
Sept 5 – We drive through the fertile Annapolis area full of farmlands and orchards. We walk along the dykes in Wolfville. The tide is low and the familiar red mud waterways are exposed. There is special grass planted along the dyke shores. The Acadian people used this grass to successfully build a dyke system and reclaim the land, much like the Dutch. Some of these dykes have been in place for over 300 years!
A visit to Grand-Pre National Historic Site helps us to understand the Acadian story. The Acadian people tried to remain neutral with the French and British during battles over Nova Scotia, always refusing to take up arms. In the end, they refused to swear an oath to the British. Over 7 years they were rounded up and deported. Some were shipped to Europe, and others Massachusetts, Quebec, and Georgia. Some make it as far as Louisiana giving us the Cajun population. Many perished at sea. Some Acadian people eventually came back to NS – we have seen evidence of this throughout Quebec, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick.
Our last stop is Burntcoat Head Park where the highest tides have been recorded at 53 feet. We time it just right for low tide and spend time exploring the ocean floor with massive red cliffs, red sand, flowerpot rocks, and lots of mud. After dinner, we head back to see that a lot of water has come back up the shore, but high tide will not be until 9:30. Also, one would have to be out on a boat to see the cliffs covered to get the full visual effect.
Sept 6 – Back to Truro to get some new tires. We spend the day enjoying a long bike along the Bay of Fundy and through the farmlands. The dairy farm had a funky machine that moved along pushing the hay back towards the cows just like a roomba vacuum!